Cascade Canyon Ice and Mixed

West Side

Ice forms consistently but very variably on the west side of the canyon south of the waterfall and pool. A curtain and pillars near the pool form the pure ice routes. This curtain can be accessed from above from a tree that usually has a rope handline attached. From the tree an exposed but easy descent of about 20ft reaches a ledge with many bolt anchors and usually a fixed line. Ice pours off this ledge above several mixed lines (between Phoenix and Night Shift) and occasionally forms pillars that reach the ground. South (left) of these routes various seeps form pillars that usually touch the base but don't reach the clifftop. The South Pillar is commonly top roped from a large tree and usually is the fattest ice. Routes to the left of the South Pillar include some routes that were originally farmed but to my knowledge farming is no longer allowed.  Routes are listed from climber's left (south) to right (north).

POW D8+ ⭐⭐⭐

A technical, purely dry-tooling route that starts about 20 feet right of a prominent rock pillar resting against the wall. 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchors. Probably will extend to the cliff top. FA 1/26/2023.

Green-POW, Yellow-OBD

GZ on POW

OBD (Ogden's Bolt Direct) M5-6 ⭐⭐⭐

Fun mixed route up to a bolt placed by Jared Ogden to access a large, farmed pillar a while ago (referred to as "Wicked Garden" in Jack Roberts' Colorado Ice?). It's unclear if that route followed the same line or the larger dihedral to the right. The route starts about 25 feet right of a prominent rock pillar resting against the wall. Climb through the initial overhangs on thin ice and frozen moss hooks to a left-facing dihedral crack. The crack is on the left side of a detached pillar. 5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor shared with POW.

Cebollas M8 ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Will H. starting Cebollas

This route extends above OBD through the blocky overhangs. From the OBD anchors traverse right a few feet and gain a ledge below several large roofs. The first roof is turned to the right with minimal footholds (crux). Move back left at the next roof and continue through two more strenuous roofs to the top. 6 bolts (12 total for OBD and Cebollas). 2 bolt anchors. FA 1/21/2023

Cebollas Direct Start (TR) M7 ⭐⭐

A direct start to Cebollas up a thin vertical face. Needs 6 bolts.

Unnamed Dry-tooling Route

A route on the face left of Easta'gunzin has several bolts, some with old, fixed draws and bolt anchors. Reportedly led to farmed ice (Colorado Ice Vol. 1, Jack Roberts).

Easta'gunzin D8+ PG13

Climbed infrequently. 4 rusty old bolts + gear. Very little ice forms on this route. Perhaps farmed on the original ascent? 

Riding Manon M9- PG13-Farmed

Variation to Easta'gunzin. Move right below the roof. The route in old pictures appeared to have had ice over the roof that never forms without farming.

Marcus’s Route M7 ⭐⭐⭐

The first bolted route south of the South Pillar. Begin near the left side of the South Pillar. The ice may form over the bottom of the route as the season progresses. Dry tooling up bolt-protected overhanging rock with some drilled pockets leads to ice mushrooms or verglass (a bolt was added for when the ice is too thin). Above the overhang continue left on rock to bolt anchors with wire draws below some broken blocks. 7 bolts + stubby screws (some bolts can be covered with ice as the season progresses).

Crack Variation (TR) M7 ⭐⭐

This line can get covered with ice in some years. Start with the first 2 bolts of Marcus's Route and move right on thin ice when possible. Continue up the crack on good gear (cams/stoppers (red DMM, green Camalot, red/yellow-red Alien) to 1.5") to a ledge below a large roof. Finish up Insurrection or South Pillar to the top. Tree anchor.

Insurrection M8- ⭐⭐

From the top anchors of Marcus’s Route move right avoiding loose blocks and ascend a crack, or ice if it is filled in, to a ledge at the base of a roof. Pull over the roof (crux) and finish up the face to the top. A screw or two or cams, depending on the ice formed and 4 bolts. Can also approach by climbing the South Pillar. Tree anchor. FA 2/7/2021 RH/JCS

South Pillar WI4-5, M4-5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐

An obvious pillar seeps out of the cliff about 20ft below the top. The bottom often gets kicked out before it fully forms. At the top of the pillar ascend fun dry tooling protected by small cams/stoppers to the top. Tree anchor.

Smear to Chains WI4 ⭐⭐

North of the South Pillar an ice smear of variable thickness forms. There is a set of bolt anchors at the top of the smear. Screws.

The following routes ascend to a top approach ledge about 20 ft below the top of the cliff. Approach from the top on the skiers left from a big tree with slings. There are many bolts and usually a fixed rope across the ledge.

Phoenix M6+ ⭐⭐⭐

Ascends to the left side of the top approach ledge. The first bolted line right (north) of the South Pillar. Well bolted, joins Moby's near the top and has a loose exit with an old fixed wire. 7 bolts to bolt anchors on the south edge of the approach ledge. FA 2021 Andy

Moby's M7 ⭐⭐

Ascends to the left side of the top approach ledge. Originally climbed without bolts by Ryan Nelson in 2003 per MP. It has variable amounts of ice at the top and bottom and some moss sticks to get to a crack. 4 bolts (2 lower bolts replaced with SS 2023) + gear (green Alien+ blue DMM offset stopper in lower crack then a red or red-yellow Alien). Bolt anchors on the south end of the approach ledge.

Dingle M6 ⭐⭐⭐

A rock face between hanging ice pillars with an obvious, usually ice-filled, crack leads to an overhang. Ascend the face using the crack and clipping bolts to the right to the overhang. Move right onto the ice and up to the ledge.  New SS bolts 2/2021. A more difficult finish going left at the top of the crack has an old bolt but is overgrown with brush. Bolt anchors on the approach ledge.

Night Shift M5-6 ⭐⭐⭐

The first bolted line left of the main curtain. Direct start is a bit harder. At the last bolt move left onto the ice and up to the ledge. 5 bolts and perhaps a screw or two. Bolts replaced with SS 2021.

North Curtain/Main Flow WI 3-4 ⭐⭐⭐

The ice curtain and pillars that form on the west side of the canyon nearest the pool. Very popular for top-roping and is often nicely hooked out.

Dry-tooling Route Right of the North Pillar 

A bolted line ascends a smooth overhanging wall over the pool to the left (west) of the waterfall.

East Side

Psycho Babble  M7+ (apparently has been bolted and has fixed wire draws in place)

Traverse left out over the east side of the main pool (lately the ice around the pool has been very narrow) to a short ice seep. Use the ice to gain the rock above and continue past bolts to bolt anchors.

Ice seems to rarely form very well on the following routes:

Breakin' the Law T WI6 M7

Sixes T WI6 M6

Against the Grain S WI6 M8