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| Hidden Valley Wall 2018 Topo |
Latest route condition symbols:
👍👍= usually clean, climbed regularly👍=usually clean but climbed infrequently
👎= climbed infrequently or probably dirty/deteriorated
💀=dangerous
T = Trad-some gear required
S = Sport- all bolts
Hidden Valley Wall- North Chimney Area
A large chimney cuts through the wall on the north end of the wall. These routes lie just north of the chimney.
1. Goodnight Moon ** 5.12a 25m S 👍
From the base of the North Chimney scramble to the large belay ledge ~ 5m up and left. Ascend the steep face on crimps (crux) past four bolts to a stance. With several difficult slab moves gain the blunt arête and intersect Day Sleeper. 6 bolts (stick clip 1st bolt) to chains.
2. Day Sleeper ** 5.10+ 25m S 👍
From the belay ledge for Goodnight Moon ascend the slab just left of the North Chimney. Intersect Goodnight Moon at 5th bolt. Continue up the slab to chains. 6 bolts to chains.
Hidden Valley Wall- Solarium
The Solarium extends from The North Chimney south to Einar's Offwidth.
3. Marmite ** 5.11a 30m T 👍
Start ~10m right of the North Chimney. Climb out of the shallow cave through overhanging white rock past two bolts. At a horizontal crack move right to another bolt and reach right to a thin crack (meet Vegemite). Continue up into the dihedral above. 2 bolt anchor shared with Vegemite. 6 bolts (stick clip 1st or 2nd bolt-there is a yucca below the climb ) + gear 1, 1½ , 2 & 2 slings to reduce drag.4. Vegemite *** 5.12b 30m T 👍
Climb the steep face right of Marmite. After difficult face climbing in solid red rock (2 bolts) climb through the overhang on small crimps to a block (crux). Continue up to a crack and intersect Marmite. 4 bolts, gear to 2.5"5. Trouble (in the Neighborhood) **** 5.11b 30m T 👍👍
A classic Hidden Valley moderate. Start just right of Vegemite directly beneath a large triangular overhang ~ 20m up with crack/dihedral on its right side. After a difficult boulder problem to gain a ledge, face climb directly up until the crack is gained. The crux face moves are after 4th bolt. Ascend the crack directly up to ledge (caution: loose blocks on left approaching the anchors). 4 bolts + gear to 2.5" to anchors (2 bolts with carabiners).
6. Big Trouble ** 5.11b 30m T 👎
Climb the steep black-streaked face several feet right of Trouble to ledges (3 bolts, 5.11b). Continue up the wide crack. Gear.
7. The Big Slide *** 5.11b 30m T 👍
Climb the steep black-streaked face several feet right of Trouble to ledges (3 bolts). Continue up the tricky, shallow dihedral right of the Big Trouble crack. 8 bolts + optional gear: blue/green alien hybrid, red alien. Chain anchor.
8. Call of the Wild (Original) *** 5.12a S 30m 👍
Begin ~10 ft. right of Big Trouble. Pass three bolts up the steep face to a ledge (5.10+). Place # 1.5 Friend/Orange Alien in horizontal (optional). Climb straight up to the overhanging bulge (crux) then up the overhanging face to another small ledge. Difficult slab and face climbing leads to a two-bolt anchor. 11 bolts optional 1.5" cam
9. The Call Direct *** 5.12d PG 30m (Project)
A bit squeezed in between The Call and Lazy Sunday but sustained, fun moves and generally excellent rock. Starts just right of The Call Original with a 5.11+ face and an exciting exit to the first ledge (PG). Stay right of The Original making some powerful moves up the headwall (crux). Meet The Original near the top of the headwall and finish up the slab to the top. 3" cam protects the section after the third bolt. 11 bolts + 3" cam
10. Lazy Sunday ** 5.11b 30m S 👎
Follow the dihedral system right of The Call. Crux slab near top. 10 bolts. Shares 2-bolt anchor with The Call.
11. Einar’s Offwidth * 5.10a 60m T 👎
Locate the prominent dihedral and offwidth on the right edge of the Solarium Area.
Climb through a short section of choss to a short overhanging hand crack (1-2”) and gain a ledge. Scramble to the base of the prominent 4-5” crack. Ascend the crack to easy ground and climb to the cliff top or Eagle's Dare anchors to the right. Gear ¾-5” include 4-5” pieces to protect the crack well.
Hidden Valley Wall- South
Routes are south of Einar's Offwidth.
12. Eagle’s Dare *** 5.11a S 👍
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| Joel on Eagle's Dare |
13. Swimming with Turtles ** 5.12a T 👎
Stick clip. Same start as Eagle’s Dare. Clip the 3rd bolt out right then move right up to the overhang. Ascend the steep face to a horizontal crack (2.5 Alien-needs a bolt). 2.5" Cam. Stick clip.
14. Air Hockey ** 5.12a S 👎
A strenuous route, with a boulder problem through the red rock, and a hard series of moves to start the route proper. Goes over a roof to the face above, then traverses right to the Penguin anchor. Stick clip.
15. Penguin Café (project) *** S 5.12c
Hard moves up an initial corner, with a short traverse left before heading straight up and right again. Hard, varied climbing. Stick clip.
16. Soldier On ** 5.11d T 👍
High stick clip to two bolt anchors. Ascend steep face past to a 15ft perched block (can place a 2" cam in horizontal crack). Ascend a hand crack to the top of the block. Work left across the block to a bolt and difficult stemming move to a two bolt anchor. A second pitch continues up the crack above to a two bolt anchor on a ledge 35m from the ground.
17. Soldier On with Direct Finish *** 5.12a T
From the top of the perched block on Soldier On, instead of traversing left, continue up the thin crack in the corner to a good hand jam below a roof. Turn the roof with well-protected technical moves to the two bolt anchors.18. The Globe Crack * 5.11d PG T 👎
Start on Soldier On and move left after the 2nd bolt into the crack. Continue up the chimney to the cliff top. Full rack
19. The Vendee Globe (aka The Globe) *** 5.12d S 👍
A steep technical test piece. Stick-clip first bolt to protect the red choss section then straight up through overhangs to ledge with chain anchors. Stick-clip
20. Moki Dugway ** 5.12b T 👎
Carefully climb the red choss to the first bolt (5.11). Continue up difficult face moves (5.12) then move leftward on a sequential series of holds across a huge bulge (5.12). Move up on slopers to a good stance and crack. Place a 3" cam and traverse left to a good hold. Head straight up for more good 11 climbing to anchors @100ft. 3" cam, stick clip.
21.Joe Lite ** 5.10 T 👍
Right of The Globe a left facing corner protected by three bolts leads to an overhang (long stick clip to first bolts). Traverse left to a horizontal crack (2.5 and 3.5 cams) and ledge. Climb the steep face on large but sloping holds to a belay ledge with two bolts. 4 bolts, 2.5, 3.5 Cams. Stick clip.
22. Mojo Risin’ *** 5.11d/12a T 👎
Right of The Globe a left facing corner protected by three bolts leads to an overhang (long stick clip to the first bolt). From the third bolt (Joe Lite to here), continue straight up (crux) over the overhang to a ledge with belay bolts. Continue straight up thin cracks to a bolt that protects slabby face moves. Continue up the crack to a belay on top of stacked blocks. 30m rappel to the ground. 8 bolts + Hybrid green/yellow Alien, ½”, ¾", 1”, 1.5”, 2” cams. 2 bolt chain anchors. Route was cleaned up 2/2015.
Variation: Mojo Lite ** 5.11b
Climb Joe Lite to the ledge then continue up Mojo Risin' to the top anchors.23. Hey Joe ** 5.12a S 👎
From the Joe Lite belay traverse right to a bolt. Continue up the steep face to Mojo Risin’ anchors. Stick-clip
24. Hey Joe Direct (project) ** 5.13? S
Start at the first bolt of Joe Lite and move up and right to an overhang. Difficult moves through the overhang lead to a ledge. Continue up Hey Joe. Stick-clip
25. The Hippocrack ** 5.11d PG T 👎
Pitch 1: Ascend the first prominent crack system right of Hey Joe. Stick-clip a bolt above the red choss. Climb a detached block in a corner to an overhang then move right and ascend the thin crack (5.10+). Bolt anchors on the ledge (The Hippodrome).
Pitch 2: Continue up the wide crack to a steep, shallow groove. A bolt protects the crux moves up the offwidth/groove to a sloping ledge (7” Camalot helpful to protect minor runout). Another bolt protects a bulge before easier ground is reached. Continue up and right to two bolt/chain anchors. Cams to 3” + 4.5 and 7” Camalot (1.5 Alien for pitch 2) + several large stoppers. Stick-clip
26. Circus Maximus 5.12a S 👎
From The Hippodrome Ledge climb the wide dihedral. Technical stemming but deteriorating holds. 6 bolts + stopper to chain anchors. Stick-clip
27. Black Bash (project) *** 5.12+/13- S
Steep, bolt-protected face climbing leads to a ledge and bolts (12+). Continue up thin, technical rock above (possibly 13-).
28. Global Warming *** 5.12b S 👎
Long stick-clip to the first bolt then Batman over the red choss to a ledge below the good rock. Ascend an overhanging face with gymnastic moves to the ledge. A good burly route. 5 Bolts, 2-bolt anchor, long stick clip. (Needs anchors below the first protection bolt to stick clip and possibly an addition bolt between bolts 2 and 3).
29. Jump, Little Fella ** 5.11b T 👎
The next prominent crack and dihedral right of Hippocrack.
Pitch 1: (Jump Little Fella) Long stick clip to first bolt. Climb choss to the base of the solid rock then jump to a large hold. Continue right through the overhangs into a black dihedral. Belay with friends 2(2), 2.5 on the ledge. #5 stopper, ¾, 1.5, 2.5, 3
Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral (5.11) to slabs above. #5 RP, ½, ¾ (3), 1, 1.5, 4 Camalot, 4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor. Stick-clip
Pitch 1: (Jump Little Fella) Long stick clip to first bolt. Climb choss to the base of the solid rock then jump to a large hold. Continue right through the overhangs into a black dihedral. Belay with friends 2(2), 2.5 on the ledge. #5 stopper, ¾, 1.5, 2.5, 3
Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral (5.11) to slabs above. #5 RP, ½, ¾ (3), 1, 1.5, 4 Camalot, 4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor. Stick-clip
30. Bango Desert 5.12c 👎
Challenging route, athletic moves up the dihedral to the face above. Hard hidden valley face moves to anchors @100ft. Stick-clip
31. Poison Lizard 5.11b 👎
Same start as Bango, but travels to the right with some exciting moves to gain an upper dihedral. Climb to the same anchors above the big clamshell. Stick-clip
32. Drop House 5.12b 👎
Hard moves to start following a crack over a roof, face moves to the same clam shell as Bango. Stick-clip
33. Synergy 5.12a 👎
Traverse up and left past several bolts to black rock then continue past the roof to easier ground. Stick-clip.Hidden Valley Wall- Drumlin Buttress
34. Valley Uprising Extension *** (Project) 5.13? or 5.11+ A0 25m S
Stick-clip the first bolt of Drumlin and gain a horizontal crack (place an optional 1.5-2.5" cam). Move left up the face past two bolts to a horizontal crack and a rest. Move straight up to an obvious large, flat jug on the arête. The well-protected boulder-problem crux moves involve using powerful side-pulls to get your feet on the flat jug (or pull on two bolts). Continue up to bolt anchors. 7 bolts (stick clip 1st bolt). TR 10/18/19.
35. Valley Uprising **** 5.11+ 20m S 👍👍
Stick-clip the first bolt of Drumlin and gain a horizontal crack (place an optional 1.5-2.5" cam). Move left up the face past two bolts to a horizontal crack and a rest. Move right up the bulge on good face holds to jugs. Continue left to Valley Uprising Extension or place a sling on the top bolt and move right to Drumlin (take a 3/4" cam if finishing on Drumlin).36. Drumlin **** 5.12a 25m T 👍👍
The first Hidden Valley sport route. Climb the steep orange face on the far South end of the cliff. Crux is after the 4th bolt. Take an optional 1.5-2.5" cam for after the first bolt and 3/4" cam (yellow Alien) for after the 5th bolt to avoid minor run outs. 5 bolts (stick clip 1st bolt) to chains. 3/4/00
37. Project 5.10+? 20m TR
15 ft right of Drumlin. Climb the face left of a long loose pillar in a dihedral. The dihedral has a sharp, thin crack above the loose pillar but stay on the face on good rock, avoiding loose blocks. Angle toward the left side of the large overhang. Would need 4-5 bolts and anchors below the overhang. TR 10/20/19
Other Routes on the East Side
38. Two Towers 5.11
About 100 yards. north of the HVW is a prominent buttress with two rounded towers above. The South Face has been climbed with all trad gear circa 2008. Start with a short overhang to gain a steep face with a discontinuous crack for about 25-30 feet on the south face of the buttress (5.11). Easier ground leads to the top of the first round tower. Continue to the top of the second tower and then to the ridge crest.
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