The Far North

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The most northerly cliff band.

Latest route condition symbols:

👍👍= usually clean, climbed regularly
👍=usually clean but climbed infrequently
👎= climbed infrequently or probably dirty/deteriorated
💀=dangerous

T = Trad-some gear required
S = Sport- all bolts

Unfortunately, much of this wall it is protected by large, loose overhangs. The middle section of the wall though has great rock and some good climbs.

Into the Wild ** 5.11d S 👍

Stick clip two etriers or a rope ladder to the left bolt above the large roof left of Valkyrie. Monkey up over the roof to a starting jug. Clip the third bolt out right then free climb up past the roof above to the anchors. Wild. The crux moves are after the third bolt. 5 bolts. 11/01/08 Variation: direct finish to the Valkyrie anchors.

Valkyrie *** 5.12c S 👍

Climb the prominent dihedral capped by a large roof. Move left at the bulge above the second bolt. At the top of the dihedral clip the anchors then traverse left to large holds at the left side of the roof. Stop at the large holds because of loose rock at the cliff top. Stellar. 7 bolts (top two bolts serve as descent anchors).

Reykjavik *** 5.12b S 👍

Climb to the second bolt of Valkyrie but skirt the bulge by moving right. Angle rightward through the blocky overhangs to the crux overhanging corner. A good burly route. 6 bolts + 2 bolt anchors.

Polaris **** 5.12b/c 10m S 👍👍

One of the best. Right of Reykjavik is a white south-facing wall. Start directly below the face and gain a shallow dihedral. Continue left up sustained and technical overhanging face climbing. Excellent. 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchors.

Nanuk *** 5.10a 10m S 👍👍

Start just right of Polaris and climb a steep face with excellent positive holds. Stay on the face right of a shallow corner to avoid some loose blocks and gain a ledge with bolt anchors (can also clip a bolt out left from the anchors and continue left to the Polaris anchors). 4 bolts + 2 bolt anchors. FA: E.O.

Borealis *** 5.10b 10m S 👍👍

Start right of Nanuk before the massive overhangs.  Stick clip the first bolt and do a boulder problem to surmount the initial overhang to good holds. Ascend the arete (5.10-, 2 bolts) above on solid rock to ledges above Nanuk. 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Nanuk.

Project 2 5.11 A0

Start on the right side of the massive roofs, about 100ft right of Nanuk. The initial overhang to gain a dihedral has not been free climbed. Once in the dihedral traverse left (5.11?) above the overhangs then straight up to bolt anchors.

Fire and Ice ** 5.10- or 5.8  S 👎

On the South end of the cliff is a wide dihedral. Stay left of the bolts for Fire (5.10-) and right of the bolts for Ice (5.8). 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.