The Far North

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The furthest northerly cliff band is identified by large overhangs along most of the cliff. There is a central section of the cliff band that is more accessible to excellent rock that holds the majority of routes. The massive overhangs are pretty featureless or have loose blocks.

Latest route condition symbols:

👍👍= usually clean, climbed regularly
👍=usually clean but climbed infrequently
👎= climbed infrequently or probably dirty/deteriorated
💀=dangerous

T = Trad-some gear required
S = Sport- all bolts

Into the Wild ** 5.11d A0 S 👎

An unusual route that starts about 15 ft above the big overhang left of the central section of the cliff. Stick clip two etriers or a rope ladder to the left bolt above the large roof left of Valkyrie. Monkey up over the roof to a starting jug. Clip the third bolt out right then free climb up past the roof above to the anchors. Wild. The crux moves are after the third bolt. 5 bolts. 11/01/08 Variation: direct finish to the Valkyrie anchors.

The following routes ascend a central section of the wall that lies between the massive, chossy overhangs. This section of the wall has great rock and some excellent climbs.

Valkyrie *** 5.12c S 👍

Climb the prominent dihedral capped by a large, horizontal roof. Move left at the bulge above the second bolt. At the top of the dihedral clip the anchors then traverse left to large holds at the left side of the roof. Stop at the large holds because of loose rock at the cliff top. Stellar. 7 bolts (top two bolts serve as descent anchors).

Reykjavik *** 5.12b S 👍

Climb to the second bolt of Valkyrie but skirt the bulge by moving right. Angle rightward through the blocky overhangs to the crux overhanging corner. A good burly route. 6 bolts + 2 bolt anchors.

Polaris **** 5.12b/c 12m S 👍👍

One of the best. Right of Reykjavik is a white south-facing wall. Start directly below the face and gain a shallow dihedral. Continue up sustained and technical, slightly overhanging, crimps and use the arete for some critical left-hand holds. A knee bar near the last bolt affords a little relief before the final moves to the anchor. Excellent. 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchors.

Nanuk *** 5.10a 10m S 👍👍

Start is just right of Polaris. Stick clip a high bolt climb the tricky shallow groove or directly through an initial bulge (directly below the first bolt) to gain good holds. Continue up the steep face with excellent positive holds. Stay on the face and avoid the blocky, shallow corner to the left. Gain a ledge with bolt anchors (from the anchors you can also clip a bolt out left and traverse to the Polaris anchors). 4 bolts + 2 bolt anchors. FA: E.O.

Borealis *** 5.11a 10m S 👍👍

Start a few feet right of Nanuk. Stick clip the first bolt and do a boulder problem to surmount the initial overhang to good holds. Ascend the arete directly (11-) or move right and up a more blocky face (5.10-). 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Nanuk.

Project 1 

Start right of Borealis before the massive overhangs. A direct start is probably pretty hard but traversing right after the first bolt of Borealis is an alternative to gain a clean section of good rock. Would be a nice addition to the more moderate routes.

Project 2 5.11 A0

Start on the right side of the massive roofs, about 100ft right of Nanuk. The initial overhang to gain a dihedral has not been free climbed. Once in the dihedral traverse left (5.11?) above the overhangs then straight up to bolt anchors.

Fire and Ice ** 5.10 or 5.8  S 👍

On the far south end of the cliff is a wide dihedral. Stay left of the bolts for Fire (5.10) and right of the bolts for Ice (5.8). 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor with hangers only (draws can be retrieved from the cliff top).