The Prow and The Grotto

Latest route condition symbols:

👍👍= usually clean, climbed regularly
👍=usually clean but climbed infrequently
👎= climbed infrequently or probably dirty/deteriorated
💀=dangerous
 
T = Trad-some gear required
S = Sport- all bolts

The Prow 

The northern end of the Southern Exposure forms a prominent prow.

👎 routes are 👍 or 👍👍 once brushed off in the spring.

Swiftsure * 5.8 T 👎

Climb the finger-to-hand crack in the left-facing corner on the left side of the prow until beneath an overhanging broken block (💀). Traverse right out of the dihedral on large holds to a bolt on the face (joins Sirens here). Continue up the face up to a ledge with bolt anchors. Gear ¾ to 2.5”.

Sirens *** 5.11d 15m S 👍👍

Just right of the Swiftsure crack is a bolted face through the blocky overhangs. Start with the finger crack of Swiftsure until able to clip a bolt above an overhang (can stick clip). Move right and up to a jug ledge below the large overhang. Reach left to side-pulls and pull through the overhang (crux). Continue up the face above to easier ground. Athletic. An optional 1.5" cam protects a run-out at the top. 6 bolts (1st 2 bolts replaced) to 2  bolt anchor.

Keelhaul *** 5.13- S 👍👍



Mike P. on Keelhaul

Start just left of a thin overhanging crack. Make powerful layaway moves through the overhang to reach a good hold at the base of a rock fin, 5.13-. Continue right under the roof (2nd crux) to good holds on the right side of the arête. Move back left (3rd crux) until better holds are reached on the left side of the arête. Powerful, technical and sustained. 6 bolts. (Sirens start, traverse-in version-Kyle E. 2016; direct version, Mike P. 2/22/20).

 

The Grotto 

The concave wall north of The Prow.

Click on image to view

The Grotto forms ice in the winter and can drip for a while in the spring and but has good rock and climbs well after a little brushing in the spring.

The Tomahawk Arête *** 5.11c S 👍👍

Climb the arête marked with a prominent black streak. Spectacular finish. Stay left at the top to avoid the death blocks!  7 bolts. Chains. Needs mussy hooks.

Austin on RP Tomahawk Direct

Tomahawk Direct *** 5.12c S 👍👍

The thin, technical right-hand start stays on the right side of the arête following the black streak to the 4th bolt. Hard not to barn door at the third clip. 7 bolts to chains.

Pooh Corner * 5.11b T 👎

Climb the face right of the prominent corner until past a plant. Ascend the crack (5.8),  Move left onto the face before the chopper blocks (💀) and finish up the overhanging prow to the left 5.11- 2 bolts. ¾ to 2.5 cams

Fork (on the Left) ** 5.11a or 5.12a S 👍👍

Austin on "Fork"

Start directly below a pointed roof.  Climb easy rock past one bolt to a ledge about 15 ft up. The first three bolts are shared with Butter Knife. Stay left at the third clip.

Turn the roof to the left then move back right to avoid loose blocks and reach the anchors above Butter Knife. An alternative is to attack the roof more directly staying in-line with the bolts
(5.12-). 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Butterknife.

Butter Knife ** 5.10d S 👍👍

Start directly below a pointed roof.  Climb easy rock past one bolt to a ledge about 15 ft up.  Climb the steep white face above angling rightward and skirt the roof in a groove to the right. 6 bolts to two bolt anchor. Needs mussy hooks.

9d ** 5.11b  15m T 👍

About 10 m right of Pooh Corner ascend a continuous crack system through a steep open book. Green-blue, 3/4, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 4 (3 Camalot), ~3/8 stopper, green offset stopper. 2 bolt anchor.

Corona *** 5.12a/b 15m S 👍👍

Ascend the face with bolts just right of 9d to a bulge Ascend the bulge directly (crux) then work left up the overhanging face on small crimps to a huge jug and join 9d to the anchors (optional 1/2" and 2" cam). Tends to stay dry and clean. 6 bolts to chains shared with 9d.

Atlatil *** 5.12a 15m S 👍👍

Start below a hanging dihedral right of 9d (second bolt line right of 9d). Ascend moderate rock until below a short dihedral. Move directly up into the dihedral (crux) or a little right through the overhang to jugs. Continue left to the 9d anchors (caution with blocks). 7 bolts to chains shared with 9d.

Octavius ** 5.10b T 👍

Climb broken rock past the first  two bolts of Atlatil then move right into the  crack. red/yellow alien, 1, 1.5, 2, 3 Camalot plus quickdraws.

Gigantor ** 5.12b/c S 👍👍

Climb moderate, broken rock past several bolts and angle left up the steep technical face between the  two crack systems of Octavius and Jedediah. 6 bolts + 1.5 alien for top. 2 bolts/chains.

Jedediah ** 5.10d T 👍👍

Start with the first three bolts of Gigantor then move right into the steep crack. Stopper, yellow, yellow-red, 1.5 Aliens and 4 bolts. 2 bolts/chains shared with Gigantor.

Stiletto *** 5.11d 15m S 👍👍

The prominent detached pillar defines the right side of the Grotto. Ascend moderate rock up the right side of the arête to a bolt about 20 ft up (could use an intermediate bolt). Stay on the front of the pillar and move over the roof (crux). Place an optional 1.5" cam (orange Alien) to protect moderate moves to the anchors. Gear to the left of the pillar can protect moves to the first bolt. 3 bolts to chains.