Southern Exposure

The short wall directly across from the parking area and above some large boulders across the field.

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The Southern Exposure gets good sun during the winter and can be climbed year-round. In the center of the cliff is a scramble area that leads to a ledge that can be traversed to access top anchors on many routes. Routes are 10-15m in length on generally excellent rock (Entrada Sandstone). A stick-clip and small rack are useful.

Latest route condition symbols:

👍👍= usually clean, climbed regularly

👍=usually clean but climbed infrequently

👎= climbed infrequently or probably dirty/deteriorated

💀=dangerous

T = Trad-some gear required

S = Sport- all bolts, any gear is optional

Southern Exposure-Left

Blind Fish ** 5.12a 15m S 👍👍

Stick clip a bolt below the prominent crack system right of the Prow. Ascend a left-facing dihedral and finger crack to the bolt and then move left onto the overhanging bulge. Ascend straight up overhanging rock and stay on the face above. 6 bolts. 2 bolt anchor. 3/10/08 Stick-clip.

Cave Elephant * 15m 5.11a T 👎

Start on Blind Fish by stick clipping the first bolt but climb straight up the crack above the first bolt-crux. Continue straight up to a thin corner crack (the crack tends to be dirty). 1 bolt + gear to 3” include ½, 2 & 3” cams. Shares Blind Fish anchors. 3/8/04 Stick-clip.

Dresser Catch ** 5.11d PG (5.8) 15m S 👍👍

Climb through the difficult overhang immediately right of Cave Elephant into a left-facing dihedral. Stick clip the first bolt then 3 more bolts protect the difficult section. Continue straight up easier ground past another bolt to the top (can also finish up either Cave Elephant or Knob Creek). 2 bolt anchor.

Knob Creek *** 5.11b S 15m👍👍

Ascend an overhanging left-facing dihedral with 2 bolts on it’s right wall. Continue straight up the blocky face to the ledge avoiding the easier ledges to the left. 5 bolts. Shares Dresser Catch anchors. Can also move right at the last bolt to Rotator anchors. 3/3/04 Variation: Eliminate large holds above both the second and third bolts. 5.12 (Dresser Knob 5.12: At the third bolt of Dresser Catch, move right, clip the third bolt of Knob Creek and do the 5.12 version of Knob Creek).

Collateral Damage ** 5.10b PG T 👍

Ascend the corner and crack system just right of Knob Creek. Gear: cams 1/2-2"-also takes stoppers. 2 bolt anchor shared with Rotator.

Rotator *** 5.11c S 👍👍

Ascend the clean face with a thin left-angling crack. Moving right to the dihedral makes it easier. Continue on larger holds then move left at the last bolt before the big blocks near the top and onto a ledge with anchors (can also move right to the Freeride anchors). 4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor (A variation climbs only the face between the bolts and the left facing dihedral to the right eliminating the larger holds either side 5.11+).

Freeride *** 5.8 S 👍👍

The best route of it's grade in Hidden Valley ascends the prominent black streak right of Rotator. Boulder about 5 ft. up to a ledge to clip the first bolt. Pull through the overhanging, left-facing dihedral to a stance (crux). Continue up the face above to a large ledge. 4 bolts. 2-bolt anchor with mussy hooks.

Ki Breathing *** 5.9+ S 👍👍

Start in a short left-facing dihedral, clip a bolt (or stick clip) and make an awkward move onto a triangular ledge. Continue up the face past two more bolts to bolt anchors.

Apex * 5.10b  PG 15m T 👎

Climb the crack system on the left side of an inverted V-shaped slab capped by an overhang. Face climb to a thin crack (small stoppers) then up the right facing dihedral to the blocky overhang. Avoid loose blocks left of the dihedral. Clip the third bolt of Everett Reuss, place a 1.5 Alien in a shallow crack on the face out right and make difficult face moves to the top. Small stoppers, cams to 2.5 + 1"-2.5" cams for anchors or move right to anchors for Everett Reuss.

Everett Ruess *** 5.10a 15m S 👍👍

Start just right of the Apex crack in a small dihedral. Avoid loose blocks to the right and move up the right-facing corner past three bolts. At the third bolt move right past a final bolt (awkward clip) and up the face (crux). Bolt anchors (steel biners)

Renegade ** 5.11-  15m PG T 👍👍

Stick clip a high bolt. Climb through slightly overhanging rock left of KO on crimps and side pulls to broken rock. 💀Avoid loose rock to the left above the bulge. Gear (yellow Alien or stopper & a green Camalot) is needed to protect the top crack. Can move right and finish on KO at the top. 2 bolts + shares chain anchors with KO.

KO *** 5.11a  15m S 👍👍

Excellent and sustained face climbing up a short steep wall. 5 bolts + chain anchors/mussy hooks.

Peace ** 5.9  15m T 👍

The original SE route. Ascend a left-facing corner then move over a bulge protected by a single bolt.  Variation climbs the crack right of the Imagine arête to the bolt. 1 bolt + stoppers + ½, ¾ (2-3), 1 cams +2.5 Alien.

Imagine… ** 5.10 R  T 👍

The arête right of peace. Make difficult bouldering moves staying on the arête. 1" cam + smaller cams until you can clip the bolt on Peace.

Verde Fire *** 5.10c  S 13m 👍👍

Climb the face with lime-green lichen just right of a prominent black steak. 3 bolts. Top anchors (2 bolts with chains) for Verde Fire, Yucca and The Green Arête are in an alcove about 10 ft. above the face. Variation: Stay left of the bolts and right of the crack on small crimps: 5.12.

Yucca * 5.10b PG T 👍

Ascend the left facing corner right of Verde Fire. Clip the first bolt of The Green Arête to protect the lower dihedral. Gear to 1.5".

The Green Arête ** 5.10a T 👍👍

Use the arête to climb the green lichened  face. ½" cam or green-blue offset alien. 4 bolts to bolt anchors.

The Scramble Route-Class 3

This is the approach to gain the ledge above most of the Southern Exposure routes (Blind Fish to Magenshmerzen) to set up top-ropes. Find the weakness in the cliff between the right and left side of the Southern Exposure cliff band.

Southern Exposure-Right

Skyfall * 5.9 TR 💀

First route right of the scramble area. Start at the base of 007. Move left out onto the hanging arête (crux). Continue up the arête avoiding loose rock to the right. Needs some additional cleaning.

007 ** 5.10a S 👍👍

First bolted route right of the Scramble Area is a good warm-up for harder climbs to the right. Some nice hold variations can increase the difficulty. Climb the overhanging face to a dihedral then straight up clipping bolts (Luna) on the right side of the dihedral. From the ledge traverse right to anchors above Magenschmerz. 4 bolts to bolt anchors. Variation: move right at the second bolt and finish up Luna.

Luna ** 5.11a S 👍👍

Start right of 007 and climb through a blocky overhang past 2 bolts. Reach left to clip the 2nd bolt of 007 (helps to have a draw on it) and continue up the steep face above. Traverse right to anchors above Magenschmerz. 5 bolts. 12/3/08.

Am Schuss ** 5.11b/c  15m S 👍👍

Bouldering crux is top-roped with a stick clip. Climb through the roof on big slopers just right of Luna (V3 or crimps only V4) and ascend a slab above (several variations). To keep a pump going move right at the second bolt and stay on overhanging jugs, clipping the third bolt of Magenschmerzen. 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Magenschmerzen. 

Magenschmerzen *** 5.12a S 👍👍

First bouldering crux is top-roped with a stick clip. Steep white face right of Am Schuss. 3 bolts, optional 1-1.5" cam to bolt anchors. Elimination variation (Magen): Don't step back to the stem on the lower crux (V4)

Hard Sun ** 5.12a S 👍👍

Bouldering crux is top-roped with a stick clip. Right of Magenschmerzen. Be cautious of the starting block (stick clip and keep belayer out of the way). 3 bolts + optional 1-1.5 cam, bolt anchors.

Brownstone ** 5.12a S 👍👍

Bouldering crux is top-roped with a high stick clip. Begin on the right end of the cliff band just left of a large right facing dihedral. Crank through the overhangs (various options) and onto the face above 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchors.

The Brownstone Arête  5.7 T 💀 👎

Start in the prominent dihedral on the right side of the cliff band. Place a 1” cam in the splitter crack and move left onto the arête (watch for loose blocks). Move up the arête to the Brownstone anchors. Gear from small stoppers to 2”.

The Dihedral 5.9 T 👎

On the right side of the cliff band is a prominent right-facing dihedral. Best to top-rope from the Ultima Thule anchors but can be led on gear (PG). Old sling anchors are still present around blocks at the top.

Ultima Thule 5.8 ** T 👍👍

Climb the clean slab right of The Dihedral (last bolted route on the right side of the crag). Stay on the slab and avoid brush/loose rock out right after the 2nd bolt. Gear: Yellow Alien/stopper between 1st and 2nd bolts + green Camalot/orange Alien near the top. FA just on gear but R/X. 2 bolts and anchors.