John on the crux last pitch of Shades of Beauty |
John on the first pitch of Curtain Call |
Incredible route.
The snow started to fall as we headed toward the Stanley Headwall. With increasing avalanche conditions and deep snow with no trail caused us to bag that and head back up to the Icefields Parkway.
After a trip up Sniveling Gully (Grade 4 right now) to check out the Upper Weeping Wall we decided to give it a go. Eating, drinking and lounging around for a day, we watched a couple of parties climb it in persistent snow on Thursday and geared up for the attempt on Friday.
Upper Weeping Wall on a snowy day with a couple of parties on it |
First pitch Upper Weeping Wall |
Turned out to be great, very comfortable belays with reasonable screws most of the way. The crux was the top of the third pitch with a lot of chandeliered and aerated ice and questionable screws.
3rd pitch heading out onto the crux final curtain |
Top of Weeping Wall after a great week. Next year Stanley and the Ghost. |
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